Hand book of perfumes with formulations (Revised and Enlarged Edition)

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The book covers Creating Perfume, Flower Perfumes and their Formulation, Sophisticated/Fantasy Perfumes and their Formulation, Colognes, Perfumes for Men, Oifaction and Gustation: The Sense of Smell and Taste, Raw Materials of Perfumes (Natural Origin), Raw Materials of Perfumes (Synthetic Origin), Classification of Odours and Odourants, Applications of Perfumes, Packaging of Perfumes, Testing of Perfumes, Aerosol Spray, Aromatic Perfumery Compounds, Scents and Perfumes, Spray (Perfume), Perfumes for Soap, Detergent and Agarbatti etc Yara Yara, Perfumery Compounds, Intimale Scent, Chemicals etc from all types of Flowers, Suppliers of Plant & Equipments, Suppliers of Packaging Materials, Suppliers of Raw Materials, Present Manufacturers/Suppliers/Exporters The book covers Chap. I : Creating PERFUME : 1. Introduction 2. Working within a Framework 3. Price 4. Packaging 5. Inspiration 6. The Practical Foundation 7. Inspiration : Response to Stimuli 8. Trial and Error 9. Colours 10. Jeancard on Composition 11. Limitations of Formulae 12. The Perfumer's Knowledge of Chemistry 13. Creativity in the Art of Perfumery 14. Carles' Method 15. Merit of Carles' System 16. Tone 17. Volatility 18. Intensity 19. Volume 20. Atmosphere 21. Tenacity 22. Fixation 23. Systematic Recording of Data Chap. II : FLOWER PERFUMES AND THEIR FORMULATION : 1. Introduction 2. Rose 3. Jasmine 4. Orange Flower and Neroli 5. Violet 6. Acacia 7. Broom 8. Carnation 9. Types of Carnation 10. Oeillet de Nice 11. Garden Pink 12. Sea Pink 13. Cyclamen 14. Fougere (Fern) 15. Gardenia 16. Hawthorn 17. Heliotrope 18. Honeysuckle 19. Hyacinth 20. Iris 21. Lilac 22. Lily-of-the-Valley 23. Linden (Lime Blossom) 24. Magnolia 25. Mignonetta (Reseda) 26. Mimosa 27. Narcissus 28. Nardo 29. New-Mown Hay 30. Nicotiana 31. Opopanax 32. Orchid (Orchidee) 33. Pansy 34. Peony 35. Phlox 36. Sweet Pea 37. Syringa (Philadephus) 38. Trefle (Clover) 39. Tuberose 40. Verbena 41. Wallflower 42. Wistaria 43. Ylang-Ylang Chap. III : SOPHISTICATED/FANTASY PERFUMES AND THEIR FORMULATION : 1. Introduction 2. Aldehydic Perfumes 3. Chypre Types 4. Oriental Perfumes 5. Green' Perfumes 6. Dominant Note Types 7. The Ambergris Note 8. Manufacturing Processes 9. Alcoholic Strengths 10. Control Chap. IV : COLOGNES : PERFUMES FOR Men : 1. Introduction 2. Toilet Waters 3. Grape Juice 4. Grain 5. Molasses 6. Synthesis 7. Modified Colognes 8. Perfumes for Men 9. Verbena 10. Violet Chap. V : OLFACTION AND GUSTATION : THE Sense OF SMELL AND TASTE : 1. Introduction 2. Olfaction 3. Mechanism of Perception 4. Odourous and Odourless 5. What Makes a Substance Smell? 6. A Coding System for Olfactory Specificity 7. How/Does a Perfumer 'See' Odours 8. Abnormalities of Smell 9. Gustation 10. The Complexity of Flavour Perception 11. Taste-Sensitivity, Intuition and Introversion Chap. VI : RAW MATERIALS OF PERFUMES (NATURAL ORIGIN) : 1. Introduction 2. Natural Odourants Employed in Perfumery 3. Concrete Oils 4. Absolute Oils 5. Essential Oils Derived Distillation 6. Essential Oils Obtained by Expression 7. Isolates from Essential Oils 8. Natural Odourants as Tinctures 9. Balsams and Resins 10. Concrete Oils or 'Concretes' 11. Absolute Oils 12. Floral Series 13. Rose Notes 14. Absolute Oil of Rose de Grasse 15. Bulgarian Rose Absolute 16. Moroccan and Turkish Rose Absolutes 17. Absolute of Rose Geranium 18. Absolute Oil of Rose Leaves 19. Jasmine Notes 20. Absolute Oil of Jasmine 21. Absolute of Ylang-Ylang 22. Hyacinth Notes 23. Lilac and Lily 24. Absolute Oil of Lilac 25. Lily-of-the-valley 26. Orange-blossom Notes 27. Orangeflower Absolute 28. Absolute Oil of Orangeflower Water 29. Absolute Oil of Syringa 30. Tuberose Notes 31. Absolute Oil of Tuberose 32. Absolute Oil of Narcissus 33. Absolute Oil of Jonquil 34. Absolute Oil of Champaca 35. Absolute Oil of Honeysuckle 36. Absolute Oil of Lily 37. Violet Notes 38. Absolute Oil of Violet 39. Absolute Oil of Parma Violet 40. Absolute Oil of Violet Leaves 41. Absolute Oil of Boronia 42. Absolute Oil of Cassie 43. Absolute Oil of Mimosa 44. Absolute Oil of Iris 45. Mignonette Notes 46. Absolute Oil of Mignonette (Reseda) 47. Woody Series 48. Sandal Notes 49. Solvent-extracted Sandalwood 50. Peppery Notes 51. Absolute Oil of Thyme 52. Caryophyllaceous Notes 53. Absolute Oil of Carnation 54. Absolute Oil of Clovers 55. Absolute Oil of Tobacco Flower 56. Rural Series 57. Herbaceous Notes 58. Absolute Oil of Flouve 59. New Mown Hazy Absolute 60. Absolute Oil of Lavender 61. Absolute Oil of Lavandin 62. Tea Leaf Absolute 63. Green Notes 64. Oakmoss (Mouse de Chene) 65. Absolute Oil of Fern 66. Absolute Oil of Ivy 67. Absolute Oil of Tree 68. Moss (Mousse d'Arbre) 69. Vetiver Absolute 70. Balsamic Series 71. Resinous Notes 72. Absolute Oil of Cypress 73. Absolute Oil of Fir Needles 74. Everlasting (Immortelle) Absolute 75. Vanilla Notes 76. Absolute Oil of Vanilla 77. Absolute Oil of Heliotrope 78. Fruity Series 79. Animal Series 80. Amber Notes 81. Ambrette Seed Absolute 82. Angelica Absolute 83. Cumin Absolute 84. Labdanum Absolute 85. Clary Sage Absolute 86. Maritime Notes 87. Seaweed Absolute 88. Musk Notes 89. Costus Absolute 90. Empyreumatic Series 91. Tobacco Notes 92. Mate (Pert) Absolute 93. Melilot Absolute 94. Tobacco Leaf Absolute 95. Essential Oils, Terpeneless Oils 96. Expressed Essential Oils 97. Bergamot 98. Grape Fruit 99. Lemon 100. Mandain 101. Orange 102. Orange, Sweet (Portugal) 103. Isolates, Esters etc. 104. Anise Oil 105. Bois de Rose Oil (Brazil) 106. Camomile Oil (German) 107. Cedarwood Oil (Virginian) 108. Citronella Oil (Java) 109. Clove Oil 110. Geranium Oil (Bourbon) 111. Lemongrass Oil 112. Palmarosa Oil 113. Sassafrass Oil 114. Tinctures, Resins, Balsams 115. Tinctures 116. Infusions 117. Absolutes 118. Ambergris 119. Castoreum 120. Civet 121. Musk 122. Ambrette Seed 123. Chaulmoogra 124. Orris 125. Vanilla Tincture 126. Balsams and Resins 127. Benzoin 128. Copaiba 129. Galbanum 130. Labdanum 131. Myrrh 132. Olibanum 133. Opopanax 134. Peru, Balsam 135. Styrax 136. Tolu Balsam Chap. VII : RAW MATERIALS OF PERFUMES (SYNTHETIC ORIGIN) : 1. Introduction 2. Green Notes 3. Group A(1) 4. Methyl Heptin Carbonate (M.H.C.) 5. Methyl Octin Carbonate (M.O.C.) 6. Phenylacetaldehyde 7. Hydratropic Aldehyde 8. P-iso Propyl Phenylacetic Aldehyde 9. Group A(2) 10. Cis-3-Hexenal 11. Cis-3-Hexenol or 'Leaf Alcohol' 12. Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate 13. Cis-3-Hexenyl Formate 14. Cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate 15. Acetaldehyde-di-cis-3-hexenyl Acetal 16. Nonadienal 17. Nonadienal Diethyl Acetal 18. Dihydro-nor-dicyclopentadienly Acetate 19. Fruity Notes 20. Peach 21. Apricot 22. Plum 23. Mirabelle 24. Strawbeery 25. Raspberry 26. Blackcurrant 27. Fig 28. Hazel 29. Bitter Almond 30. Aniseed 31. Citrus Oils 32. Melon Notes 33. Angelica Oils 34. Woody Notes 35. Empyreumatic Notes 36. Animal Notes 37. Principal Odourants of Animal Origin 38. Musks, Synthetic 39. Civet, Synthetic 40. Ambergris, Synthetic 41. Chaulmoogra Oil 42. Castoreum Synthetic 43. Hexyl Benzoate (Woody-green-balsamic) 44. Citronellyl Ethoxylate (Sweet, Musky, Ambrette Odour) 45. The Salicylates 46. Iso Amyl Salicylate 47. Benzyl Salicylate 48. Isobutyl Salicylate 49. Methyl Salicylate 50. Ethyl Salicylate 51. Phenylethyl Salicylate 52. Acetates 53. Iso Amyl Acetate 54. Anisyl Acetate 55. Benzyl Acetate 56. Bornyl Acetate 57. Ibobutyl Acetate 58. Cedryl Acetate 59. Cinnamyl Acetate 60. Citronellyl Acetate 61. P-Cresyl Acetate 62. Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acetate 63. Dimethyl Octanyl Acetate (Tetrahydrogeranyl Acetate) 64. Dimethyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate 65. Ethyl Aceto-acetate 66. Ethyl Hexyl Carbinyl Acetate (3-nonanyl Acetate) 67. Ethyl Linalyl Acetate 68. Eugenyl Acetate 69. Geranyl Acetate 70. Linalyl Acetate 71. Epoxy Linalyl Acetate (Linalool Oxide Acetate) 72. Menthyl Acetate 73. P-Methoxy Phenylbutyl Acetate 74. Methyl Hexyl Carbinyl Acetate 75. Neryl Acetate 76. Octyl Acetate 77. Phenylethyl Acetate 78. Phenylpropyl Acetate (Hydrocinnamyl Acetate) 79. Rhodinyl Acetate 80. Santalyl Acetate 81. Terpinyl Acetate 82. Trichloromethyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate 83. The Fatty Alcohols, Aldehydes and Acetals 84. Acetophenone 85. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 86. Anisic Alcohol 87. Anisic Aldehyde 88. Coumarin 89. P-Cresyl Amyl Ether 90. Dihydrocarveoi 91. Dihydromyrcenol 92. Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol 93. Dimethyl Hydroquinone (Hydroquinone Dimethyl Ether) 94. Dimethyl Octanol (Tetrahydrogeraniol) 95. Dimethyl Phenyl Carbinol 96. Diphenyl Methane 97. Diphenyl Oxide 98. Estragole (Methyl Chavico!, Iso-anethole) 99. Ethyl-Hexyl Carbinol (3-nonanol) Ethyl Linalool 100. Ethyl Vanillin (Vanillal, Bourbonal) 101. Eugenol 102. Isoeugenol 103. Fixateur 404(Firmenich) 104. Geraniol 105. Heliotropin 106. Heptanal Glyceryl Acetal 107. Isohexenyl Tetrahydro Benzaldehyde 108. Hexylcinnamic Aldehyde 109. Hydroxycitronellal 110. Indole 111. Ionone Alpha 112. Ionone Beta 113. Isojasmone 114. Linalool 115. Menthone 116. Methyl Acetophenone 117. Methyl P-Cresol (Naracresol Methyl other) 118. Methyl Eugenol (Eugenol Methyl Ether) 119. Methyl Heptyl Ketone 120. Methyl Ionones 121. Methyl Methylanthranliate 122. Methyl Naphthyl Ketone 123. P-Methyl Quinolone 124. Muguet Aldehyde 125. Nerol 126. Nerolidol 127. Prienylacetic Acid 128. Phenylacetic Aldehyde 129. Phenylethyl Alcohol 130. Phenylpropyl Alcohol 131. Phenylpropyl Aldehyde (Hydrocinnamic Aldehyde) 132. Piperonyl Acetone (Hellotropyl Acetone) 133. Rhodinol 134. Safrole 135. Santalol 136. Skatole (Methyl Indole) 137. Terpineol 138. Teipmolene 139. P-Tolyl Acetaldehyde ('Syringa Aldehyde') 140. Trimethylcyclohexanone 141. Benzyl Valenanate (or Valerate) 142. Citronellyl Valerianate 143. Geranyl Valerianate 144. Linalyl Valerianate 145. Vanillin Chap. VIII : CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURS AND ODOURANTS : 1. Introduction 2. Classification Based on Physical Characteristics : Group-1 : Floral Series Group-2 : Woody Series Group-3 : Rustic Series Group-4 : Balsamic Series Group-5 : Fruity Series Group 6 : Animal Series Group 7 : Empyreumatic Series Group 8 : Repulsive Series Group 9 : Edible Series Chap. IX. APPLICATIONS OF PERFUMES : 1. Introduction 2. Perfumes Used in Industrialised Society 3. Household Products 4. Personal Products 5. Agricultural Products 6. Flavours 7. Perfumes for Soaps 8. Factors Influencing Soap Perfuming 9. Esters 10. Alcohols 11. Ketones 12. Aldehydes and Acetals 13. Other Constituents 14. Soap Perfumery Fashions 15. Perfuming Synthetic Detergents 16. Stability of Perfumery Chemicals 17. Perfumed Disinfectants 18. Perfuming the Air 19. Incense and Fumigants 20. Pefumed Candles 21. Paints and Polishes 22. Other Household Products 23. Perfuming Cosmetics 24. Adapting the Perfume to the Vehicle 25. Perfuming Creams 26. Perfuming Powders 27. Perfuming Lipstick and Nail Lacquer! 28. Hair Preparation Perfumes 29. Perfumed Aerosols 30. Pharmacy and Medicine 31. Industrial Perfumes 32. Perfumes for Textiles 33. Perfumed Ink and Paper 34. Masking Malodours 35. Perfume in Agriculture 36. Perfumed Insecticides 37. Miscellaneous Uses 38. Flavours as Perfumes Chap. X : PACKAGING OF PERFUMES : 1. Introduction 2. Packaging in the Past 3. The Impact of Aerosols 4. Perfume Identity 5. The Name 6. The Bottle 7. Labels 8. Cartons and Coffrets 9. External Wrapping 10. Perfume and the World of Fashion 11. The Question of Colour 12. The Means of Advertising 13. Press Publicity 14. Sampls and Models Chap. XI : TESTING OF PERFUMES : 1. Introduction 2. Sampling 3. Closed Type (Undivided) 4. Closed Type (Divided) 5. Open Type Sampling Scoop 6. Sampling from Tanks 7. Criteria for Conformity 8. For Individual Samples 9. Examples 10. Packing and Labelling 11. Instructions Regarding Costly Materials 12. Analysis 13. Preparation of the Material for Physico-chemical Analysis 14. Physical Analysis 15. Estimation of Relative Density 16. Estimation of Relative Density by Pyknometer 17. Principle 18. Apparatus 19. Procedure 20. Calculation 21. Determination of Freezing Point 22. Principle 23. Apparatus 24. Procedure 25. Results 26. Determination of Refractive Index by Refractometer 27. Principle 28. Apparatus 29. Refractometer, Light Source (Sodium Light) 30. Procedure' 31. Calculation 32. Determination of Solubility in Ethanol 33. Principle 34. Apparatus 35. Reagents 36. Procedure 37. Calculations 38. Determination of Optical Rotation and Specific Rotation by Polarlmeter 39. Principle 40. Apparatus 41. Procedure 42. Calculation 43. Determination of Melting Point and Melting Range 44. Principle 45. Apparatus 46. Procedure 47. Results 48. Determination of Boiling (Distillation) Range 49. Principle 50. Apparatus 51. Procedure 52. Method for Olfactory Assessment of Natural and Synthetic Perfumery Materials 53. Principle 54. Terminology 55. Material Requirements 56. Ethyl alcohol, Perfumery Grade 57. Diethyl Phthalate, Perfumery Grade 58. Determination of Resideu on Evaporation 59. Apparatus 60. Procedure 61. Calculation 62. Chemical Analysis 63. Determination of Content of Alcohol Insoluble Solid Impurities 64. Principle 65. Procedure 66. Calculation 66. Determination of Water Content 67. Principle 68. Reagent 69. Apparatus 70. Calculation 71. Determination of Acid Value 72. Principle 73. Apparatus 74. Reagents 75. Procedure 76. Determination of Ester Value, Content of Estaers and Combined Alcohols 77. Principle 78. Apparatus 79. Reagents 80. Prepared Sample 81. Procedure 82. Calculation 83. Determination of Ester Value after Acetylation and free Alcohols 84. Apparatus 85. Reagents 86. Procedure 87. Calculation 88. Principle 89. Apparatus 90. Reagents 91. Procedure 92. Calculation 93. Determination of Carbonyl Value and Content of Carbonyl Compounds 94. Hydroxylammonium Chloride Method - Method - A 95. Principle 96. Apparatus 97. Reagents 98. Procedure 99. Calculation 100. Principle 101. Apparatus 102. Reagents 103. Procedure 104. Calculation 105. Determination of Phenols 106. Principle 107. Apparatus 108. Reagents 109. Procedure 110. Determination 111. Calculation 112. Determination of Heavy Metals 113. Determination of Lead Content 114. Apparatus 115. Procedure 116. Reagent Blank Determination 117. Expression of Results 118. Determination of Iron 119. Reagents 120. Standard Iron Solution 121. Procedure 122. Detection of Petroleum and Mineral Oils 123. Apparatus 124. Reagents 125. Estimation of Chlorine 126. Principle 127. Apparatus 128. Procedure 129. Result 130. Determination of Cineole Content 131. Principle 132. Apparatus 133. Reagents 134. Procedure 135. Calculation Chap. XII : Aerosol Spray : 1. Manufacturing Process 2. Essence and Perfumery 3. General Procedure 4. Synthetic Rose Otto No. 1056 5. Red Roses No.-1057 6. Violet No. 1068 7. Plant Economics 8. Plant & Machinery 9. Fixed Capital 10. Raw Materials 11. Total Working Capital/Month 12. Total Capital Investment 13. Turn Over/Annum Chap. XIII : Aromatic PERFUMERY COMPOUNDS : 1. Formulation and Raw Materials 2. Fancy Bougnet 3. Manufacturing Process 4. Fancy Bouquet 5. Process 6. Royale Bouquet 7. Process 8. Plant Economics 9. Plant & Machinery 10. Fixed Capital 11. Raw Materials 12. Total Working Capital/Annum 13. Total Capital Investment 14. Turn Over/Annum Chap. XIV : SCENTS AND PERFUMES : 1. Process of Manufacture 2. Extraction Process 3. Extraction Volatile Solvent 4. Plant Economics 5. Plant & Machinery 6. Fixed Capital 7. Raw Materials 8. Total Working Capital/Month 9. Total Capital Investment 10. Turn Over/Annum Chap. XV : SPRAY (PERFUME) : 1. Manufacturing Process 2. Essence and Perfumery 3. General Procedure 4. Synthetic Rose Otto No. 1056 5. Red Roses no. 1057 6. Violet No. 1068 7. Plant Economics 8. Plant & Machinery 9. Fixed Capital 10. Raw Materials 11. Total Working Capital/Month 12. Total Capital Investment 13. Turn Over/Annum Chap. XVI : PERFUMES FOR SOAP, DETERGENT AND Agarbatti ETC. YARA YARA : 1. Process of Manufacture 2. Plant Economics 3. Plant & Machinery 4. Fixed Capital 5. Raw Materials 6. Total Working Capital/Month 7. Total Capital Investment 8. Turn Over/Annum Chap. XVII : PERFUMERY COMPOUNDS : 1. Rose Concrete 2. Rose Absolute 3. Process of Manufacture 4. Water Distillation 5. Water and Steam Distillation 6. Steam Distillation Chap. XVIII : INTIMATE SCENT, CHEMICALS ETC. FROM ALL TYPES OF Flowers : 1. Manufacturing Process Chap. XIX : SUPPLIERS OF Plants EQUIPMENTS : 1. Refrigeration Unit 2. Distilling Machine 3. Boilers Industrial 4. Blenders 5. Aerosol Filling Machine 6. Storage Tanks 7. Lab Equipments Chap. XX : SUPPLIERS OF PACKAGING MATERIALS : 1. Packaging 2. Aerosol Cans 3. Glass Bottles 4. Caps (Aluminium) Chap. XXI : SUPPLIERS OF RAW MATERIALS : 1. Essential Oil 2. Aromatic Solvents 3. Perfume Musk 4. Flavouring Chap. 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